Qu4l0 is right implied odds to call a flush draw depend entirely on how much money there is behind and how big the SPR is, as well as the opponent and how likely the player is to pay you off if you hit. A lot of the other things that you mentioned depend on the player you are playing against, the depth of stacks, and a heap of other factors. The only two of the factors you mentioned that I agree with are the first and the forth. I don’t think that the others can really be used as proper strategy. Raise to 10X minimum?! That completely depends on the opponent- if you’ve ever played at the high/ elite stakes level you will know that almost all people will know what you are trying to do and bust you very quickly and easily. And you’re suggesting that you should NEVER slowplay? That’s ludicrous 
! If you have a proper knowledge of your opponent then there a lot of reasons why slowplaying would be the most profitable decision. I don’t want to offend you or make you think that I underestimate your poker playing ability.I’m sure you’re a good player, but this advice isn’t properly correct and I don’t think that you can really use that for strategy advice. Try looking at strategy videos, buying a book, or looking at real money forums if you want to get better at poker.
Yes for sure. Implied odds are basically an estimate. As said It is player dependent. That is why I stated that implied odds are “roughly” a third of the pot as it is player dependent whether or not you will get paid off if you do hit your flush. I tried to be careful about the wording. 
Thanks for expanding on implied odds guys.
I still quite don’t understand your sentence but never mind =P
To add to the implied odds topic, you can calculate the amount of money you’re supposed to extract later on to make your call break even.
Say there’s a 100$ pot, your opponent bets 100$ making it a 2:1 call. If you have a flush draw your odds of hitting on the next street are 4.2:1.
Subtract from your odds the pot odd and you’ll get 2.2:1. You’ll need to extract at least 2.2 x 100$ = 220$ in order to “make” your call break even.
cheers
You bet. I always thought of it as any half pot size your opponent makes gives the “implied” odds to call. so $100 pot with your opponent betting $50 you would be calling $50 to win $150 which is 1/3rd. I don’t really think about the river card unless I am calling an all in which then implied odds do not apply or of course or I have missed the flush on the turn card.
Slowplaying is rarely profitable. You can read many many books that all state not to slowplay hands (in general). The only time it is profitable is if you own the whole board. Or your opponents have caught onto your betting patterns. At most stake levels on replay poker with the amount of callers hands shouldn’t be slowplayed. You need to charge the garbage hands that are trying to draw on you especially if you have a strong hand. The few examples are if you own the board as I said, you flopped a flush ace high, you flopped a straight, etc. These are hands That you shouldn’t be aggressive with as it may chase two pair hands or three of a kind players out in which case you want as many players in the pot as possible. But it is very rare that this happens. The question was (no offense to the player) not likely targeted for elite to high level players in which a whole new set of strategies and thought process comes in.10 times minimum is a decent raise it can be lower it really is table dependent. ten times with aces and kings has been very profitable at replay in my experience to push out most callers but some tables I have gotten away with lower raises.
You are right in saying that slow playing is overused on replay, and at low stakes, it would be very unprofitable to check top pair or just call with aces or kings preflop, because the table dynamic seems to be very loose passive, but slowplaying definitely has its place. I don’t think it gives the right impression if you say that ‘slowplaying is bad.’ Flopping top set is the most obvious reason for this, but it can be used a lot more frequently than this. On dry boards that don’t hit your opponents range, checking top pair can be by far the most profitable, so that you can hope that your opponent will get a piece of the board on the turn or the river. I’m not sure if this techincally counts as slowplaying, but it’s often better to check weaker hands such as middle pairs or top pair with a bad kicker to control the size of the pot, stop your opponent from being able to raise you, and to give opponents the chance to call your bet on one street with a worse hand.
Oh I see. Didn’t mean to give the impression slowplaying was bad as for sure it has a place. But any time a hand is threatened by a draw it should be bet was all I mean’t. I just meant slowplaying as in allowing opponents to collect cards that could wreck your hand without giving improper odds to call or betting so weak as your opponent does have proper odds to make the call. I just see a lot of sets being beat by draws due to extremely weak betting is all when the opponent may have folded to a strong bet.But if there isnt any threat on the dry board there is definitely nothing wrong with simply checking top pair. I always bet a set though on the flop regardless of whether the threat is there or not. With the exception of dangerous boards such as all one suit or an apparent straight sitting on the board where checking seems more appropriate to see if I should just fold the hand.
As I’ve said, implied odds aren’t as easy as saying that ‘you can call 1/3 of the pot with a flush draw on the turn.’ If you are last to act, and want to call with your flush draw (rather than raising as a semi-bluff) then this is based on the amount of money you have left behind in comparison to the pot. For instance (and this probably doesn’t apply to ring games as much but it’s still important,) if that one third of a pot bet puts you just about all in, you are going to lose money because you have no implied odds. If this is the case, you need to be getting about 5:1 in order to call unless of course you can put your opponent on a baby flush draw, in which case you can get slightly different odds depending on what you think. It should be noted that hand values change depending on stack sizes because of implied and reverse implied odds, with suited connectors and small pocket pairs gaining a lot of value if the effective stack depth is over 200BB.
Example 1:
You have A♠5♠ on the button.
Board is K♠9♦7♠ 3♥, and a fairly decent tight agressive opponent has put you all in on the turn for 1/3 of the pot, having raised preflop from UTG+2 (full ring) and bet on both streets. You block almost all the flush draws they should have, with Q♠J♠ being the only one which makes any sense, although even that is a pretty wide open for a tight player. In this case, you cannot call because your opponent most likely has top pair, or maybe a set or pocket aces, and you only actually win about 20% of the time (I didn’t run this through an equity calculator and it’s not very exact but you get the idea).
Example 2:
You have A♦Q♦ on the button.
The hijack raises preflop (agressive fish) and you call.
Board is J♦J♣2♦ 3♥, and the agressive fish bets and you call on both streets, with a full pot bet on the turn. You both still have 5 pots worth behind. It’s pretty clear that the fish likes his hand a lot and wouldn’t give up if you hit your flush. I think you can call in this situation, because if you miss, you can just give up, whereas if you hit you are going to get a lot of value if you hit the flush. In fact, you can probably get the fish to give you all the money. (Once again I didn’t run this through an equity calculator but I definitely think this has to be a call)
Here is an example where I called a full pot bet with a flush draw. I did also have a pair, but you can understand my thinking when I called on the flop (the other players where definately not fish, but they seemed to like their hands a lot and I had so much behind. https://www.replaypoker.com/hand/replay/216687346/flush-ace-high
I can’t find a good situation where I folded a flush draw to less than 1/3 of the pot, but I’ll keep you updated if it happens.
Yeah. The stack size is pretty important. I just wrote a rough guide. But this is the stuff books are literally written on. Just that topic alone could take up a whole chapter. There is no distinct right way to play I dont think. I avoid making the call on paired boards with more experienced players because they will often give you odds hoping you hit your flush so they can suck you in to making a big call when they already have the full house.
Yeah small risk of full house but I said he was an agressive fish 
Yeah i suppose. The game is so complex its difficult to give tips without making a book hey? I can tell you my strategy on here is completely different than when I play the cash games lol. I would never raise anywhere near 10x in a cash game haha unless i was reraising a raise.
I think is nothing wrong with your game.The place where you play is wrong. .IF the system is against you no matter how you play , or what cards you have you will luse all the time.You can beat the player but you will never beat the system
well i had 600k once. thats my peak. now i only play 1k entry tourneys. i have 85k but i’m on a losing streak n soon i’ll be topping up again.
also i have lost interest with the game itself. i find it stupid n repititive. also i feel its about being clever more than being creative in poker. n i think its a continuous process of keeping focus which is exhausting. i just dont have the patience n motivation n the lack of creativity in the game is not helping the mood either.
They can say what they want about Replay, it is set up for you to loose unless you buy chips. I lost over 3 million today in less than an hour? I lost 3 times with KK or AA. Every time i get over 3 million in chips i start having the worst run ever. I will never never never buy chips but I may go to WSOP site.
in an hour? then probably u lost ur mind. if u lose for a long time then it can be said the site is cheating u. but within a few hours it is very easy to lose many millions.
in fact i went broke 3/4 times n all happened very quickly due to my frustration n anger. thats why i’m playing 1k tourney only. yesterday also i threw away my chips in 5 consecutive tourneys cuz i was bored n angry. if they had big entry i’d have lost millions but they were all 1k hence i didnt lose much.
exactly the same thing is happening again 
i had even much more as the first time this happened (140M). and in about a month it is all reduced to 1M, and also exactly the same way as before!
any idea’s what to do about it when i still have something left, really don’t want to lose everything.
thanks.
Sorry to hear you are on a downswing. I looked at a few of the hands you played earlier and I would probably advise against hands like this one if you want to stop the slide: Hand #287373164 · Replay Poker
Q7 in the hijack for a 6.5x BB raise may not be the best idea but then checking the flop killed it for you. The shove on the river I simply don’t get - there are no plausible hands you are representing anymore. I don’t know much of your play but this looks absolutely tilty. Calm down, have a nice beer or 6 and get back to your game.
wow, fully agree with you that’s just horrible!
i do know i was in tilt today, i did take a break and goed on later, i saw my play was bad again after a while and stopped. however even when i knew i was in tilt i did’nt knew it was that bad.
also have to say that before getting in tilt i got a lot of bad beats and some of them were very expensive. this is also happening for a month by now, also have to say it is certainly possible this combined with more tilting periods, once i even had take a break of a week hoping the game would be going better afterwards, it did’nt helped and the lots bad luck and probably also bad playing keeped on going.
if you have any other tips for me i still like to hear.
tyvm for bringing this to my attention.
The cards are dealt and the players whine…then the cards get dealt some more…
It is the circle of life…
its happend to me can be many things seems when you fold fullhouse hits happens to me alot you cant call every hand bust out fast be a rock less hands watch what 5 cards drop and see what others are playing and what the win is get agroup of cards you like and ante up miss flop fold unless rule 1 slow play min bets it lets hands catch your outs is what its about you get 2 cards see flop now what card will give you what only 2 more hitting table on the turn you should know to fold or push takes time to learn outs took me 18 years still get caught i know other plays but if i told you know one would see you again gl player